Imperial Treasure, London: ‘deadens the soul’ – restaurant review

What’s worse than a £100 crispy duck in a smart new Chinese place? Half a duck…

Imperial Treasure, 9 Waterloo Place, London SW1Y 4BE (020 3011 1328). Starters £12-£36. Main courses £18-£100+. Peking Duck £100. Desserts £7.50. Wines from £38

There is an assumption that the more you spend on an experience, the better it will be. I am forever guilty of such a delusion, borne more of hopefulness than stupidity. Few things give the lie to this better than the grinding, laboured, thudding mediocrity of a meal at Imperial Treasure, the London outpost of a gilded Chinese restaurant group which is to joy, what a public enema is to dignity.

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from The Guardian


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